The Exhibit
This exhibit offers a glimpse into the evolution of Japanese fashion over the past 150 years, showcasing selections from the extensive collection of the Harvard-Yenching Library. One of the highlights is a woodblock print from 1890 depicting the Meiji Emperor and Empress dressed in Western attire. The Meiji Empress, having adopted Western dress exclusively in public by 1886, influenced court fashion during this period as Japan navigated its modernization and interaction with the West.
In contrast to the imperial shift toward Western styles, kimono pattern design books from the same era reveal how the kimono remained the garment of choice for most Japanese people. These contemporary designs incorporate modern motifs, blending traditional Japanese aesthetics with emerging trends. Additionally, department store catalogs from the early 20th century offer insight into the popular fashions available to shoppers in Tokyo, reflecting a growing diversity in clothing choices during this transformative time.
Rounding out the exhibit are selections from Men’s Club magazine, which documented American college campus fashion and helped inspire the Ivy League style in Japan. Key staples such as blazers, sports coats, sweater vests, and oxford shirts became part of a new, sophisticated look embraced by Japanese men. The exhibit concludes with catalogs of Issey Miyake’s revolutionary fashion collections. Miyake, alongside designers like Hanae Mori and Yohji Yamamoto, developed iconic styles that seamlessly blend Japanese and Western design principles, leaving a lasting impact on global fashion.
This exhibit was curated by Adrianne Gren.
Materials on Display
Mitsukoshi Catalogue (三越カタログ） from Mitsukoshi Gofukuten (三越呉服店) c.1929-1930. (J) HF5465.J3 M58
Ryūkō (流行) from Shirokiya Gofukuten (白木屋呉服店), c.1911-1916. (J)GT1560.R98
Men’s Club, c.1965-1970. (J) TT500.A2 M45
Tōkyō Made: Bonneru (東京メード : ボンネル), Autumn/Winter 1959-1960. (J)TT500.A2 T65
Moyōhon (模様本) from Hadano Gofukuten (はだの呉服店), c.1900. 99156070191003941
Keika zuan (京華図案) by Hasegawa Keika (長谷川契華), c.1897-1905. (J)NK1484.Z9 H372 1897
Ancient and modern various usages of Tokio Japan (古今百風吾妻餘波) by Okamoto Konseki (岡本昆石), c.1885. J 4150.41 7561
The Third National Industrial Exposition (第三回内国勧業博覧会) by Watanabe Nobukazu (渡辺延), 1890. Charles Perry collection, TJ 4150.40 69 Oversize
Issey Miyake: Pleats Please (三宅一生展 :プリ-ツ・プリ-ズ : 1990年 9月 1日 (土)-30日 (日)東高現代美術館) by Miyake Issey (三宅一生), 1990. (J) NK4798.M5 P55 1990
Issey Miyake: Bodyworks (三宅一生ボディワークス) by Miyake Issey (三宅一生), 1983. (J) NK4798.M59 A4 1983
Planning to Visit?
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